This fortnight, amid the massacre in Moscow and the coronation dressed as an election beside it, my own country announced something that I think deserves a moment of plain wonder before the analysis takes over: the dates of its general election. Beginning April 19, across seven phases over six weeks, India will conduct the largest exercise of democracy in the history of the species. Nearly 970 million people are eligible to vote. Not 970 million citizens; 970 million voters, more than the entire population of Europe, more than the Americas combined. I have spent a year in this column being careful and often critical about the direction of Indian democracy, and I will be again. But this fortnight I want to describe the machine itself, because it is genuinely one of the astonishing organisational achievements on Earth and almost no one outside the country pauses to see it.
Consider the logistics, because the logistics are the marvel. The law in India says no voter should have to travel more than two kilometres to a polling station. To honour that, the Election Commission sends teams, with electronic voting machines, over mountains, across rivers, into forests and deserts, to reach every last cluster of citizens, however remote. There is a polling station, every election, set up for a single voter, a temple priest in a forest in Gujarat, because the rule is the rule and the rule says he gets to vote without a journey. Voting machines travel by boat, by elephant, by foot, carried by officials walking for days. Nearly a million polling stations. Fifteen million election workers and security personnel. The whole thing conducted in phases precisely so that the security forces can move across a subcontinent to protect each region as it votes. It is a feat of coordination that would defeat most governments and most armies, run every few years, more or less on time, at a scale that makes every other election on the planet look like a rehearsal.
I dwell on the machine, and not the politics, deliberately, because the machine is the part that gives me hope in a year when the politics mostly has not. Whatever you think of who is likely to win, and whatever this column has said and will say again about the pressures on India's institutions, the fact that a country of a billion and a half people, with the poverty and diversity and sheer difficulty that India contains, chooses its government by counting the freely-cast votes of nearly a billion people, and that the losers, mostly, accept the count, is not a small thing. It is, measured by the number of human beings who participate in it, the single largest peaceful transfer of legitimacy that our species knows how to perform. Most of the world cannot do it at all. India does it at a scale no one else would even attempt.
So before the six weeks of results and recriminations begin, before this column returns, as it will, to the harder questions about what Indian democracy is becoming, let me just say the plain thing. Nearly a billion people are about to walk to a booth, many of them poor, many of them unable to read the names, and press a button to choose who governs them, protected by a rule that will carry a machine up a mountain for a single one of them. It is imperfect, contested, and under strain, like every democracy, more than some. It is also, this fortnight, about to be the most people who have ever peacefully decided anything together, and that is worth one paragraph of undiluted awe before we get back to the argument.